Saira joins Muslim Hikers and the refugee community of Napier Friends for a walk along the sea from Folkestone as part of Refugee Week
Late this June, I joined Muslim Hikers and the refugee community from Napier Friends for a walk along the sea from Folkestone as part of Refugee Week. A few weeks earlier more than 600 people drowned in the Mediterranean when the Adriana fishing trawler capsized; many of those onboard were seeking asylum. I wanted to show my support for the refugee community by attending the led walk.
On the day, I took the train to Folkestone and walked up to the meeting point outside the hotel where a group of young men were gathered. As I arrived, Zahra came over to welcome me. She introduced me to Haroon and others in the group. I’d been wanting to join Haroon (Muslim Hikers founder) and Zahra (Muslim Hikers team member and Slow Ways contributor) on a walk for a while.
Many had undertaken risky journeys, by foot and boat, from different corners of the world including Iran, Sudan, Syria, Mauritania, and Kurdistan
We set off promptly on a circular walk along the sea, past the harbour, Sunny Sands beach and into Warren Country Park. It was a hazy bright day. Most of the men were around about my age, or a bit younger. They were staying at the Napier Barracks in Folkestone, former military barracks currently being used to house those seeking asylum. Many had undertaken risky journeys from all over the world from Iran to Kurdistan. As we walked, we spoke to each other. One man I spoke to, a developer in Iran who was in exile, told me how difficult things were for him. I nodded along, but my responses felt empty, unwise, flat. He told me that he didn’t want to leave home but had no choice. A fading optimism and stoic resignation permeated; but also hope.
Over the years, I have developed close friendships with individuals who have sought refuge in the UK. I’ve heard first-hand accounts of the perilous journeys people have undertaken – leaving behind friends and families – fleeing persecution, conflict, and strife and risking their lives repeatedly with the hope that they will, eventually, arrive.
As we wandered by the channel that has claimed so many lives, I wondered what it must feel like for some of those who had made it to this side. As we walk, an older man beside me gets a text; “Welcome to France!”
The sun beamed down and there was a sense of camaraderie. We had a joyful afternoon together. We enjoyed a Turkish feast on a hilltop. I sat with the few women from the group. We spoke about our lives: one of the girls was from my area in London. The guys played cards and laughed. They embodied a sense of presence that comes from surviving, from understanding how transient and wildly precarious life is.
As we set off again down winding chalk paths, one man raced ahead. Others yelled jokes that sounded like battle cries from various high points. As we reached a beach some took off their shoes and let the waves lap over their feet.
Zahra and Haroon, and Victoria from Napier Friends facilitated the walk – their warmth, openness and good-humour enabled everyone to feel as ease throughout
Zahra and Haroon, and Victoria from Napier Friends facilitated a walk that created a safe space for strangers to walk together, to connect with the beautiful natural landscapes and with each other. To escape, for a short while, the mammoth task that stands before them.
We arrived back in Folkestone to say goodbye. I thanked Haroon and Zahra for inviting me to the walk, and my heart hurt as I watched the group head back towards the barracks. I went to the beach and got an ice cream and looked out at the sea. I felt grateful for all of my freedoms and was reminded of the things I so often take for granted, the right to work, to be able to see my family and friends with ease. So many of those who settle on our shores gain asylum after extremely hard-won battles. Many of my friends who began their journeys as asylum seekers, have carved out new lives, they contribute to the lives of others.
To bring people together, to create safe spaces, to facilitate dialogue and connection, to enable people access to nature and to landscape – is no small feat
In the face of the world’s innumerable and growing problems, to bring people together, to create safe spaces, to facilitate dialogue and connection, to enable people access to nature and to landscape – is no small feat. The work Muslim Hikers and other grassroots community groups do is so important and valuable. Walks with strangers give us insight into the lives of those around us. It gives us an opportunity to challenge our existing preconceptions and to learn through listening. Listening with an open heart goes a long way in making people feel seen – and to feel accepted. Walking and community building can go hand in hand in creating bridges and opening channels for communication. Everyone should have an opportunity to walk together…
Napier Friends – Napier Friends help people seeking asylum to settle into their local community and their new lives in the UK
Muslim Hikers – The largest community in the world for Muslims interested in the outdoors
Jo Cox Foundation – The Jo Cox Foundation makes meaningful change on issues that the late Jo Cox MP was passionate about
This walk was facilitated by Muslim Hikers in partnership with Napier Friends and the Jo Cox foundation as part of refugee week. Interesed in going along to a led walk? Click here to view and book onto an upcoming led Slow Ways walk.
Phillipa Norwood deals with an unexpected closure of the path between Rotherham and Sheffield and uses her review to warn others
Our weekly celebration of volunteers’ efforts usually picks up a feel-good review about a walk which went well. This week, we’re featuring a good example of how to review a route that isn’t suitable for the network. After all, if all reviews are positive ones, why write reviews at all? The goal of a Slow Ways walk (besides just enjoying it) is to review a route to say whether it is suitable for future walkers. Volunteers can also go a step further with a survey, which describes the level of accessibility of a route.
Around this time last year, Phillipa attempted to walk from Rotherham to Sheffield on Sherot one. The other reviews show that Mary (who has since completed 200 walks!) had also spotted that the path was closed, which is a shame as reviewers in 2021 had described the route as a five-star walk. Phillipa’s review stands out as an example of how to fairly describe a route which has problems and provides us with an alternative, the Five Weirs Walk, which Mary uploaded as Sherot three.
This review is applicable in July 2022. Started in Rotherham to head back to Sheffield from Rotherham Station, and we were aware that some of the route was shut, but expected clear signage to get back onto the canal route via main roads. Alas, whoever designed the signs did not actually make these clear. There were no clear indications of which direction to go, so we spent a long while even attempting to work out how to get back on the route. Rotherham Council have done an absolute disservice in how they have dealt with the closure of the path, which could have been sorted out by having clear signage of how to get back onto it. Until everything reopens again, this is not a route for a casual expected route as there is not enough guidance to let you know where you need to go. There is nothing on any signage about when the route will be re-opened.
In the end, we found ourselves back on Canal Path via Bessemer Way, which we took walked to Meadowhall. Afther this point, we moved over to the Five Weirs Walk as this was more familiar and got us back to Sheffield.
This route is not straightforward for the moment, while half the path is closed. I can imagine that this will be resolved once reopened, or signage much improved to support people to know how to get back to the route.
Sherot one in 2021 by Kathy BSherot three / Five Weirs by Mary OzClosure sign by Mary Oz
To recap; in 2021, several volunteers walked this path and reported it as a good route. In 2022, both Mary and Philippa reported it as closed and therefore unsuitable for use on the network. There hasn’t been a recent update, but according to the sign Mary pictured the path should be open again, so this could be a good opportunity for another walker to Waycheck the route for 2023!
For more of our favourite reviews from Slow Ways volunteers, click here. Want to help us grow the network of verified walking routes? Sign up to walk and review Slow Ways. You can also join our community on on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
Lucy Keyworth describes the importance of mapping accessibility and how turning back can be part of the journey
After pledging to walk a local Slow Ways route, I packed my bag, checked over my mountain trike and set off on the 10km walk from Slaithwaite to Ripponden.
As I have a disability, I use an off-road wheelchair called a mountain trike to navigate the rough terrain. When following or planning a route I have to take in a few extra considerations; maps for example, don’t indicate if a route has a barrier such as a stile, or the camber and width of a path. When exploring new routes things don’t always go to plan and might take a bit longer than expected.
A photo of me in my mountain trike, surrounded by rolling hills
The start of the route to Rippendon involved walking along a quiet road past Slaithwaite Station and up into the Colne Valley. We joined a footpath that ran parallel to the road leading through several fields; the grass was long and wet, and the ground underfoot was uneven making it a challenge to push through.
After spending an hour tackling the tricky fields, the electric assist motor on my mountain trike decided to die! I found myself stuck in a farmer’s field as I couldn’t continue upwards without a working motor but was already 2km away from our starting point and had been walking for over an hour. Thankfully, I was able to call for backup and a new working mountain trike was brought to me so I could continue the journey.
Having successfully overcome this obstacle, we followed the route suggested for another 3km until we reached our next challenge… a stile.
The stile that sent us off course
My mountain trike is brilliant as it allows me to access spaces my normal wheelchair would struggle with. The trike however is big and heavy and, unfortunately, can’t levitate over objects just yet. When we reached the stile, we had no choice but to find an alternative route. Assuming this would be straightforward, we headed back on ourselves and followed the main road until we could rejoin the route via a footpath.
A 5km detour later and we were still not on the planned path as we couldn’t find a safe point of entry for mountain trike. After calculating that we should have been in Ripponden at this point as we had walked over 10km and been outside for 4 hours, we made the decision to head back to base.
We might have only gotten halfway to Ripponden, our intended destination, but if you look at it from another perspective we managed to complete a 15km walk around the beautiful Colne Valley. Things don’t always go to plan outdoors. You might not end up doing what you originally intended because of physical barriers, broken equipment, or bad weather — but the new route can be just as enjoyable.
Lucy Keyworth
Lucy Keyworth is founder of Leeds Paraclimbing Club. She is also the delivery officer at Experience Community, whose offices are right next to this Slow Way at Slaithwaite (incidentally pronounced ‘Slawit’!).
Interested in exploring the accessibility of walking paths for other users? Why not sign up to walk and review Slow Ways. You can also find and follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
Some places and routes are being added and some removed, to break up long routes and make some new connections
This is an important notice to let you know that we’re making some improvements to the Slow Ways network.
We plan for this to come into effect later this month.
There are some routes you may not want to walk and review right now as they will soon be (temporarily) removed from the website and network. You can see the changes we are making on this map.
In all we are adding 17 places and 82 Slow Ways. We are also removing 32 Slow Ways
Why are changes needed?
A Slow Way is the idea and principle that we should all be able to walk or wheel between neighbouring places.
Slow Ways are represented on our maps by straight lines. These straight lines give the Slow Ways network its distinct and attractive geometric structure. In reality, on the ground, Slow Ways walking routes wiggle through the landscape following our design methodology.
Today’s network was designed by a small group of volunteers back in 2020. They did this by eye, connecting 2,437 places with 6,692 straight Slow Ways.
For the most part this initial effort has been highly successful; we’ve had very few complaints.
That said, we have been gathering and considering suggestions and have decided to make a small number of changes to the network. We are adding some places, removing some places, breaking up a few longer routes and making some new connections.
In some places this will make a big difference to the network. A good example is the addition of Aust near Bristol. This new node in the network will mean people will not need to walk north to Chepstow when walking between Bristol and Newport.
Adding Aust (the purple pointer) to the network means removing the routes shown in red between Chepstow and Portishead, Filton, Bradley Stoke, and Thornbury, and creating instead new routes for all of the Slow Ways in purple
You can see all of these changes on this map. (Please note that it’s a map for illustration purposes – the dropped pin may not be the exact meeting point of each settlement.)
In all we are adding 17 places and 82 Slow Ways. We are also removing 32 Slow Ways.
Cristie has written warning comments on all routes that are affected by this change. You will see these within route reviews.
We have gone through a long review process, and have only made changes where we believe they have value and will have minimum impact.
Longer-term plans
We have plans to enrich the network so that it includes more settlements, has more nodes and includes lots more shorter routes. This effort will make Slow Ways more accessible and inclusive. We have decided that most changes to the network can wait for this effort.
Routes that have been reviewed and are marked for removal will not be lost forever. When we grow the network we plan to reinstate the routes and reviews that have temporarily been removed.
We will send a message in the newsletter and here in Stories once the changes have been made. We’d love for your help to check the new routes and remake any broken connections.
This effort is going to make Slow Ways even better and stronger. I can’t wait to see the network benefit from these changes.
A twisting, turning Slow Way takes Helen from the Plymouth suburb of Plymstock to the seaside town of Salcombe. Despite numerous setbacks, including having to call it off for the day, she persisted with the 23 mile adventure of Plysal one
Each week the Slow Ways editorial team chooses a review from a volunteer we found particularly entertaining, and this week’s is a real speciality. On Plysal one, Helen faces down a nearly thirty mile long route, factoring in tide times, bus timetables and ferries with limited hours. Admitting defeat from factors far beyond her control, she returns to finish the route a week later.
We enjoyed this review because of Helen’s sheer tenacity. No doubt some of her experience could be described as “Type 2 Fun” (meaning it’s only entertaining after the fact) but it sounds like she enjoyed a real multi-day adventure anyway. Despite it all, she still managed to record clear instructions for the next person to use. Nobody else has reviewed Plysal one yet, so it will be interesting to see which brave soul steps up to the challenge next!
Walking this slow ways route was quite an adventure. I had an inkling it might be and that is what attracted me to it. I would recommend it partly for that reason, but it is a challenge. It is a great walk. You could just walk the south west coastal path all the way, but it would take considerably longer and you would miss some beautiful inland South Hams countryside, with its rolling green hills and pretty villages (and pubs). My walk was also memorable for the kindness of strangers I encountered on my way.
I mentioned it’s challenging. Firstly, it is a long one; I’d say more like 26-27 miles than 23 as the plotted route smooths out quite a few bends. Secondly, it needs planning to get the timing right for three river crossings – two seasonal ferries (at the Yealm and Avon), which have limited operating hours (10am-4pm, April-end September). In between those is a tidal footpath across the Erme estuary, which should only be attempted one hour either side of low tide. If you have to factor in public transport at either end it is even more of a challenge! If the stars are aligned, I think it is possible to do in one day. However, I would recommend that you plan or prepare to stay overnight partway just in case: there is a campsite en-route at Bigbury and numerous other accommodation options. Bear in mind that public transport is likely not an option, should you need to bail out along the route (as I discovered).
I planned to walk it in one day, as the tides were right and it was a lovely long midsummer day. Unfortunately my bus to Plymstock was delayed and so I started behind schedule. I made it to the River Yealm ferry, leaving the old village of Plymstock and following mostly field paths through Wembury, to join the south west coastal path and ferry (cash only) to Noss Mayo. From Noss Mayo it heads inland, following quiet lanes, before rejoining the coastal path, which it follows all the way to the Erme. An absolutely beautiful part of the coast.
The tidal footpath crossing of the Erme is a boots and socks off wading job. It’s just a question of how far up you need to roll your trouser legs. I arrived at the Erme a little after the low tide window and thought that even my shorts might get wet, but two lovely ladies on horses guided me to the shallowest fording point and it was not even knee-deep. Very refreshing.
The slow way again turns inland. I was distracted by views from the coastal path initially and had to backtrack, which added to my time. Back on track, I continued on footpaths and quiet lanes through the villages of Kingston and Ringmore, both of which have pubs. It was a sweltering day. A couple at a holiday cottage refilled my water bottles and tried to give me food (I think they were worried about my mental as well as physical wellbeing). They also thought I might just miss the Avon ferry at Bigbury. They were right. I had completed about two thirds of the way.
There are no bus services to Bigbury so, faced with a long walk inland, I knew I would be unable to continue to Salcombe that day. As I was considering the walk or taxi to the nearest bus route at Aveton Gifford, the traffic in the lane came to a halt. Seeing two ladies in a car, I took my chance and asked for a lift. It turned out they were heading nearly all my way home and were only to happy to help. They were dressed in vintage attire for afternoon tea at Burgh Island Hotel! I can’t say this would happen every day, hence my recommendation that you have a plan B if you have to abandon the slow way!
I continued my way the following week (after three buses and a 5.5 mile walk to get back to Bigbury!). The Avon ferry is hailed by ringing a bell and waving at the ferryman (or woman in this case). Again, the Slow Way heads inland, following footpaths and some quiet lanes.
The plotted route is not very accurate in places, but for the most part it is obvious from the underlying OS mapping what is intended. There are a couple of places where it is not so. In Thurlestone, head up the main village road, past the shop, then turn down Court Park Road (also footpath) to pick up the path through fields at Court Park to South Milton. Between South Milton and South Huish, it is also a bit off. Follow the lane to Horswell House, then onto a footpath. This joins an unsealed road, then turn off again onto a footpath to Holwell. Just before Holwell, a field gate was completely tied up. I had to climb over, so have reported this to the highway authority. Near South Huish Farm, there are a two possible choices as the plotted route is not obvious. Both are probably fine but, as the route generally heads east, that’s what I did, following the footpath through a field (cattle grazing) past Court Barton to meet a minor road. Continue along the road to Malborough, after which the plotted route is easy to follow on footpaths and quiet lanes into Salcombe. Beautiful views of the estuary as you approach.
This is an adventurous, recreational slow way, rather than a functional one, but very enjoyable. Just plan ahead!
For more of our favourite reviews from Slow Ways volunteers, click here. Want to help us grow the network of verified walking routes? Why not sign up to walk and review Slow Ways. You can also find and follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
What happens when you ask ChatGPT for walking advice? Or to create a poem? Resident eco-poet Caleb Parkin headed to Troopers Hill, Bristol to find out
Editor’s note
Caleb intended to learn about and walk to a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) about four hours away from Bristol, in dialogue with ChatGPT, the popular online Large Language Model chatbot which is free for anyone to use. Suffering with a bad back however, Caleb asked ChatGPT for advice and elected to walk a shorter, stranger route to nearby Troopers Hill, a nature reserve within Bristol on the site of a former mine.
ChatGPT often gives incredibly wordy answers padded with linguistic fluff, so we’ve edited them down considerably (with ellipses). In particular, its poetry leaves much to be desired, so Caleb, as our resident eco-poet, has provided alternatives. Any poets reading? You’re not under threat from ChatGPT just yet.
Caleb: I intended to write a piece about walking, Sites of Special Scientific Interest and data, by going for a walk to an SSSI — but I have a bad back and walking far is not possible today. What other ways can I approach this piece?
CGPT: Consider researching online… Engage with experts…You could highlight the significance of SSSIs and how they contribute to scientific understanding and conservation efforts.
Caleb: Are there any SSSIs close to me here in Bristol, BS5?
CGPT: …One notable SSSI in the area is Troopers Hill, situated in St. George. It is a local nature reserve known for its geological and botanical importance.
Caleb: What flora and fauna can be found on Troopers Hill?
CGPT: … The site hosts a variety of flora and fauna… you can find species such as heather, gorse, bracken, wildflowers like orchids, and several types of grasses. The hill also provides habitats for a range of bird species, including meadow pipits, stonechats, and skylarks. Various insects like butterflies, bees, and beetles can be spotted, along with small mammals like foxes, bats, and hedgehogs…
Caleb: Can you limit responses to 50 words from now on?
CGPT: Of course! (Editor’s note: it didn’t)
Caleb: I am going to walk to Troopers Hill. How might I try and identify meadow pipits, stonechats, and skylarks? Can you give me a brief description of each?
CGPT: Certainly! Here’s a brief description of each bird species to help you identify them:
Meadow Pipit: Meadow pipits are small, streaky brown birds with long tails. They have pale underparts with streaks, and their upperparts are brown with darker markings. Look for them in open grasslands or moorlands, where they often perch on tall vegetation or fly low while singing a distinctive, high-pitched, tinkling song.
Stonechat: Stonechats are small, compact birds with a striking appearance. Males have a black head, white neck patch, and reddish-orange breast. Females have similar patterns but with paler colors. They often perch on shrubs or fences in open habitats, making a sharp, metallic “chack” call.
Skylark: Skylarks are medium-sized brown birds with streaked plumage and a crest of feathers on their head. They are known for their beautiful, melodious song that they sing while soaring high in the sky. Look for them in open grasslands or agricultural fields.
Remember, observation and listening to their distinctive calls are key to identifying these birds accurately. Enjoy your walk to Troopers Hill and happy birdwatching!
[Caleb: I actually rather liked that it could give me a description of each bird and what to look/listen out for – though not being an expert ornithologist, I’ve got not idea if it’s accurate]
[Editor’s note: a cursory check of the RSPB website seems to indicate the bird descriptions, at least, are largely accurate]
Caleb: Can you write me a haiku about trying to find a Stonechat?
CGPT:
Seeking stonechat’s trace, Whispers from shrubs I pursue, Nature’s game of hide
Caleb: Not bad, here’s mine…
Went seeking stonechats but there were only magpies, their oppressive joy
Caleb: I’m trying to walk to Troopers Hill now, but my back is hurting. Any tips? I realise you don’t have a body.
CGPT: I’m sorry to hear about your back pain. [Caleb:What does it mean for an AI to be sorry?] While I can’t provide medical advice, here are a few general tips for managing back pain during a walk:
Take it slow: Pace yourself and take frequent breaks if needed.
Use proper posture: Maintain an upright posture while walking, and avoid slouching or hunching over.
Consider support: Use walking aids like a walking stick or cane to help reduce strain on your back.
Choose comfortable footwear: Opt for supportive and cushioned shoes that provide good shock absorption.
Gentle stretches: Perform gentle stretching exercises before and after your walk to help loosen up your back muscles.
Remember to consult a healthcare professional for personalised advice regarding your back pain.
I’m thinking about pain, how it distracts thoroughly and focuses fiercely at the same time. How for those I know who live with it, it’s always pushing & pulling their attention. How they manage to be kind & creative anyway. I don’t have a question for ChatGPT about this.
Caleb: I have stopped in St George Park, BS5, for a coffee and a rest. Can you tell me a short, interesting fact about this park please?
CGPT: St George Park in BS5 is home to a rare and ancient tree species called the Caucasian Wingnut (Pterocarya fraxinifolia). This tree species is native to the Caucasus region of Eastern Europe and Western Asia and is known for its distinctive winged nuts…
AI Poetics
Caleb: If there was a fashion collection based around the timeless style of trees, what might that be like?
[A CGPT response, threaded into a poem by Caleb]:
the timeless style of trees flowing silhouettes organic shapes graceful sway of branches earthy tones greens browns earthy neutrals dominate the palette reflect the hues of foliage and bark intricate embroidery laser-cut patterns leaf motifs and tree rings elegance strength fashion-forward
Caleb: There will be fewer children & families at Troopers Hill than St George Park, so I am going to continue there after my coffee. “Family spaces” can feel quite oppressive for a child-free queer adult. How about a limerick on heteronormativity?
CGPT:
In a world of norms, there’s a tide, Heteronormativity, wide and wide, But we challenge the mold, Break free, be bold, Love transcends boundaries, side by side.
Caleb:I note that ChatGPT is allergic to half-rhyme. Here’s my effort:
If you go to the park when it’s nice then don’t expect any peace: fleeing in fear strollers in fifth gear, O how breeders take up all the space.
Practical walking advice from ChatGPT
Caleb: I am at Troopers Hill now. The next thing I need is a public toilet.
CGPT: … I don’t have access to real-time information about specific facilities or amenities in the area… Taking precautions and being prepared with necessary supplies for your visit is always a good idea.
Caleb: Thanks for the reminder you’re not an actual person. What do Stonechat birds sound like?
CGPT: Stonechats have a distinctive call that resembles two stones being tapped together. It is a sharp and repetitive sound, often described as a “tchack” or “chack” note. Both male and female stonechats use this call. Additionally, male stonechats have a melodic song, which consists of a series of musical notes, clicks, and whistles. The song is complex and varied, often delivered from a prominent perch…
Caleb: What are the criteria for assessing the importance of SSSIs?
CGPT: The criteria for assessing the importance of Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) can vary depending on the specific country and region. However, here are some general criteria that are often considered:
Ecological Diversity: SSSIs are selected based on the presence of diverse and important habitats, including rare or threatened species, unique ecosystems, or notable plant communities.
Species Rarity: Sites that support rare, endangered, or uncommon species, whether flora or fauna, are given special consideration.
Geological or Physical Features: SSSIs may include areas with exceptional geological or physical features, such as unique rock formations, geological exposures, or significant landforms.
Scientific Value: Sites that offer opportunities for scientific research, monitoring, or education, contributing to the understanding of natural processes or environmental change, are often prioritized.
Historical or Cultural Importance: In some cases, SSSIs may also incorporate historical or cultural factors, recognizing the significance of sites with archaeological or cultural heritage value.
These criteria are typically used to assess the ecological, scientific, and cultural value of sites, guiding the designation and management of SSSIs.
[Caleb: I wonder how accurate this is – it feels accurate, but isn’t that the worry? The syntax of authority?]
Caleb: Can you write me an unrhymed sonnet about Troopers Hill please?
CGPT:
Atop Troopers Hill, nature’s silent throne, Where meadows blend with skies, a tranquil grace, Its rugged slopes, where weary steps are known, Reveal the tales of time etched on its face. The windswept heather sways in gentle dance, Embracing secrets whispered in the breeze, While stonechats perch, their calls a fleeting chance, Echoes of life amidst the rolling seas. In this sanctuary, away from the crowd, Nature weaves a tapestry, rich and pure, A haven where solace and peace are endowed, A refuge where weary souls find their cure. Oh Troopers Hill, majestic and serene, Your beauty, timeless, keeps our spirits keen.
Caleb: Do you know how to write a sonnet which does not use rhyme?
[ChatGPT says yes, but then writes another rhyming sonnet when prompted; Caleb tries a third time and once again recieves a rhyming sonnet he didn’t ask for.]
Caleb: Summarise today’s walk in twenty words.
CGPT: Walked through Bristol’s St George Park, enjoyed a coffee, then continued to Troopers Hill to explore nature and seek the stonechat.
Caleb: Summarise it in ten words.
CGPT: Coffee, St George Park, Troopers Hill—nature, stonechat quest, serene exploration.
Caleb: Five words?
CGPT: Park, coffee, nature, stonechat quest.
Caleb: No words at all?
CGPT: 🚶🌳🌼🐦😌
[Caleb: I’ll choose my questions more carefully next time, and the responses even more so.]
CODA
To Take AI for a Walk by a human (probably)
is to render the world a Q&A that there are only Large Language Questions Large Language Answers but up here on the hilltop next to the sundial of this chimney the jet trails in the multivalent blue are lines where no Large Language is written just the small words of individual journeying beneath this bench the dirty talk of pigeon poo around it the syllables of grass which jiggle in the breeze’s largest language its universal gossip which sometimes capitalises into cyclonic screams beneath the lifting roofs of homes small questions are shouted into an answer whose rebuttal is entire cities where is the smallest language of ants which is the Largest Language model of pheromones and mandibles the nibble of the edges of sentience where is the Large Language of viruses which land on the planets of our cells begin their work with thesauruses their reddest pens
Knee-deep snow fields, frozen waterfalls and the warmth of a fire at the end of it all — Jo Bennie shares an account of traversing the invitingly hostile winter Cairngorms
In early March, a weather window finally opened up here in Scotland. I’d watched with frustration as week after week of 2023 rolled by with gales hurtling across the country. After careful consultation with the Met Office app and the Mountain Weather Service forecast I decided it was safe to kit up and head out on my second winter hike on the hills.
The Cairngorms in winter are lovely, but also very hostile to us humans
Scotland’s winter mountains are beautiful, but also treacherous. These hills and mountains require suitable footwear and equipment on even the best of gentle summer days. Winter walking here is tough, often over ice or through snow. Temperatures are sub zero, days are short and the weather can turn fast. In the cold conditions, the body needs more food and mobile phones drop their battery. Navigation aids are buried, visible paths are iced. The Cairngorms in winter are lovely, but also very hostile to us humans.
A salutary lesson had been provided to me through a previous venture in Glen Prosen a couple of weeks earlier. I had to call out Mountain Rescue. I had become dangerously exhausted when I climbed down a hill knee-deep in snow to a forest which turned out to be impassable, and having then to climb back up in the snow, my energy sapping away as the daylight faded.
I also completed a Winter Mountain Skills course at Aviemore, through one blue sky day and one day of whiteout, driving snow and ice forming on our gear and clothes, both in thigh-high snow.
Into the unknown
On this Slow Ways day, I headed on a partial reverse of CloAuc. I’d long wanted to walk over this spur of the White Mounth, from Glen Esk up round the top of Glen Lethnot to Glen Clova. Instead of taking the CloAuc route to come down on Loch Brandy, I planned to come down on the closer Loch Wharral, stay in the private bothy, and the next day, walk along the road to Clova.
The other half dropped me at Auchronie. One of my major bugbears walking the Angus Glens is that they aren’t accessible by public transport; I strongly dislike using a car but the only option is a 15 mile walk in from Brechin or Kirriemuir.
I finally got moving at about 10.40, later than I would have liked. I stopped to put on my microspikes: small sharp metal spikes that fasten to the bottom of your boots, a bit of a fight to get on but worth it for the amazing traction.
Winter walking in these hills is an equipment-heavy venture. The only bare skin is my eyes. Thermals go under winter trousers and jackets. Buff up over my nose, hat on my head, thermal gloves and gaiters over my boots. Tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat on my back, along with plenty of food, spare gloves and hat, compass and map and emergency survival bag. Personal locator beacon on my belt.
I crunched my way up the iced track running along the north side of Loch Lee. Blue skies, gentle ripples on the loch surface, mercury around minus two. Craig Maskeldie taking a great bite out of the Mounth ahead. I stood on the bridge over the Water of Lee for a moment watching it run under plates of ice. Beside the farm, I began the climb out of Glen Esk through the trees alongside the Burn of Inchgrundle. Just before the track ended, the Burn of Tarsen provided a spectacular sight: a waterfall, maybe ten feet high, with a rowan clinging to the edge of the flow at the top. Part of the burn still ran, and was cascading down noisily. The rest was frozen into sheets, lumpy hummocks of ice and curtains of icicles, some of which had melded to form corrugated curtains.
Off the beaten track
The track gave out, and this was the last path I would see for many hours. Navigating around Skuiley and Wester Skuiley was torturous, often ending up with me climbing steeply up through snowy deep heather. Finally, I got up onto Easter Cairn, which gave me a great view. The conical form of Mount Keen was at my back; to my right was the mighty summit and corries of Lochnagar, both pure white. The Mounth spread out before me in soft white hummocks.
I confidently strode off in the wrong direction twice after deciding I knew better than my compass, then sat myself on the stile with my map, put Loch Lee and Mount Keen behind me and realised the correct direction wasn’t to my left or straight on but to the right. Here on relict Dalraidan sandstone there are only spot heights: hills gently roll to a summit maybe only a few metres above the rest of the ground and roll away again: difficult to orientate and locate oneself in.
Now the sun began to lower and catch the field of drifts beyond, a purple blue and purple white sea of drifts studded with black heather and peat
My compass bearing had been right, but my brain had other ideas. I tramped on in the correct direction along the fence line.
This took me round Muckle Cairn and White Hill. I kept to the fence line, stepping where I could see the depth of the snow either by spotting heather or grass poking through or the depth of snow hare prints. Although they are a lot lighter than I was, their prints were with me all the way, with the occasional burn print where they had settled. This slow careful picking of my way meant I only occasionally sank into knee-high drifts, with only one knee-high encounter with a hidden burn or marsh. Whatever it was, it was wet.
The microspikes made such a difference on the icy areas, but the snow did compact around the connecting chains, which put an extra inch of ice (both height and weight) on my boots; hence lots of stopping to kick my boots and jab the ice loose with walking poles.
The snow and ice were endlessly beautiful and multiple in form. A clear pane of ice with translucent shards stuck onto and into it, flakes of clear ice laid on top of the snow catching the light, and every kind of snow. Drifts against peat hags and fence posts. The forms were like the shore, with air instead of wave, snow in place of sand. Hoar frost was welded to the top bar of a stile. Now the sun began to lower and catch the field of drifts beyond, a purple blue and purple white sea of drifts studded with black heather and peat.
Ice and fire
I was more than thankful to see the curve of the Craigs of Loch Wharral come into view as the sun was inching down behind the far side of Glen Clova. I skirted my way round the corrie head and gullies and traversed the side of Ben Tirran. The sun touched the horizon and a clear golden path stretched before me, the first since Inchgrundle. And Loch Wharral had a beach. Weird. Loch Wharral doesn’t have a beach. Too tired to care. At 6.57pm the pack finally came off. 7 hours 37 minutes to walk about 8 miles, about a third of my usual rate.
Thankfully the code for the bothy padlock was right and I staggered in across a small drift of snow that had been blown under the door. There was plenty of kindling and logs which took quickly in the stove with my fuel tablets as firestarters. A quick hop out to fill the water bottle at the half frozen burn. Food, and settling down.
There is something hypnotic about flame, and satisfyingly primal about making a fire, that sweet soft relief of warmth and dancing flame
The night was a long one. Initially I let the fire go out, thinking I’d stay warm curled up in front of the stove. I was wrong. Relit, made a cup of tea to heat myself, and eventually dozed off; beginning a cycle of dozing, the fire burning low, waking with the cold and stoking it up again. When I put logs on top of the stove to dry out, the resin softened and bled, going up like kerosene. There is something hypnotic about flame, and satisfyingly primal about making a fire, that sweet soft relief of warmth and dancing flame. Temperatures dropped to about minus eight that night.
Finally, the light came though the shutters, and I walked out to the sun rising over the far side of Glen Clova. I got warm fighting to get everything back into the rucksack. Coffee and crunchy nut cornflakes for breakfast; the milk was a little slushy.
Journey’s end
Still wrapped up, I went over to investigate that ‘beach’ Loch Wharral doesn’t have. Before me stretched the loch, with a huge white curve of ice between me and the black water. It looked like it had been formed in subzero temperatures by the wind coming down from the corrie wall above, driving waves against the corrie lip. On the bank stretched a fringe of strange long columns of ice, thick as a finger, rounded at the one end, anchored to the ground at the other, some piled up in glistening heaps. At the centre of each was a single blade of straw coloured grass. And at the water’s edge there was a snow topped rock with icicles hanging beneath, imagination conjuring some arctic monster: the snow for fur, the icicles for teeth, the bare rock for lips as if it would open its eyes at any moment and lunge.
I didn’t put my gaiters or spikes back on, the 4×4 track down to the glen was easy enough with just my walking poles. A quick change, peeling off all but a single layer in the warming sun, then a road walk to the Clova Hotel, a joy to be walking on solid ground after all the slow picking across the Mounth.
The hotel was unfortunately closed for refurbishment so I couldn’t get into the bar. Oh well. At least my lift turned up.
Jo Bennie
Born in Cambridge, Jo has lived in or near Dundee in the north east of Scotland since 1993 when she went to university there. The last three years have seen Jo “take to the hills” (literally) in Scotland, and she credits them as her teachers.
“I began by climbing the Sidlaw Hills above Dundee close to my house in Carnoustie. Next came overnight solo camping in the Angus Glens. I will continue to return to their quiet loveliness and find new sanctuaries among the ‘big hills’ of the Cairngorms. The wild camping and the movement forward in solitude brings me respite from a life complicated by autism, bipolar and long covid. For the only thing of concern to be the next step forwards. Through heather and bog and forest in the glories of the Scottish weather, consistent only in its mercurial changeability.”
Inspired to prepare for your own Slow Ways winter adventure? Why not sign up to walk and review Slow Ways. You can also find and follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
As Mike Tormey, Slow Ways star reviewer, Marshall Scholar, transport planner and all-round amazing person, moves back to the USwe look back at a ‘wildly joyful’ journey through his top 20 adventures…
Mike is a force of nature; bright, fun, daring and a total joy to be around! Since he started checking Slow Ways routes in the summer of 2021, Mike’s adventures (more than 200 of them!) have taken him all around the UK – from Chedder Gorge in Somerset to Alnwick on the Northumberland Coast.
We’re super sad that Mike’s days of walking Slow Ways are numbered (at least for now) as he moves back across the pond, to Denver, Colorado where he will start an exciting new job at the National Park Service. Ahead of his looming departure, I had the pleasure of catching up with him on a walk from Richmond to Kingston. We enjoyed a fun (and bittersweet) day walking beside the river and through unlikely green spaces whilst checking Jane’s stand-out route, catching up and eating ice-cream.
During our walk, Mike showed me his super cool tattoo of a snail he recently got in Liverpool, his favourite city in the UK. He told me the snail is a symbol of going as slow as possible as fast as possible. For me, it captures the spirit of Mike: warm, goofy, determined, always speeding ahead with positivity and purpose.
Mike has explored more towns across the UK than many of us ever will, through checking and reviewing Slow Ways, creating walks for Go Jauntly and through his own personal ‘unhinged adventures’ – a personal favourite of mine was his recent visit to Gloucester to watch the Cheese Rolling races – that’s right, CHEESE ROLLING! Others include a spontaneous visit to a Crab Museum (see t-shirt in above photo, a worthy souvenir) in Margate and a cider mill in Axbridge – the list goes on.
And so as we wandered together on that sunny day trading stories, I thought, what better way to celebrate Mike’s incredible achievements than by sharing his top 20 adventures! Without further ado – here they are – Mike’s personally chosen top 20 Slow Ways walks together with his reasons why they made the cut!
This was one of my early Slow Ways routes, and I loved how it showed off this really cool side of Glasgow. Following the River Kelvin shows off these awesome bridges and viaducts, but keeps you in a green corridor snaking your way through the city around you. It’s a rad route.
For similar reasons to above, I love the way this route takes you out of Edinburgh on a lovely green and blue corridor. There’s an awesome tunnel that’s a total highlight of the route, as is the walk out of Edinburgh city centre, which is great for showing off a lesser known connection.
Not much to say on this one. Best walk I’ve ever done. Five star adventure. I cried tears of joy arriving into Alnwick on day four. The Northumberland Coast is so beautiful. And my 100th route!
Photo by Mike TormeyPhoto by Mike Tormey
Yorkshire Dales
Another epic factor set of routes! There was a moment on day 1 when Mary and I descended from this highland plateau into a valley below, and looking back up, it looked like we had come from a mysterious wilderness. The feeling of having crossed this gorgeous landscape on foot was so exciting. And of course, the company was great! It felt like a true community moment – Mary joined me for the weekend, and we walked a route that Dave had plotted for us!
I love Liverpool, of course. What better way to experience this city I love so dearly than by arriving into it on foot? Along the gorgeous Mersey River? Wildly joyful.
This route was the middle of three I had joined up to form a marathon day. The first and third routes of the day were… okay… but I had to fail both of them. Miraculously, this route was perfect. I have fond memories of this route for the excitement of discovering it was perfectly walkable and pleasant, in contrast to the routes around it!
The first group gathering! I remember the excitement and nerves as I hopped on an early EMR train up to Long Eaton and continued my journey on two different buses to get to Melbourne on time. I was so nervous I hid in the public bathroom in the town until just before the meeting time! Of course it went swimmingly. We had a lovely day together. The first of many to come!
Photo by Mike TormeyPhoto by David Sanderson
Ely – Littleport
I was so stressed about my dissertation and feeling just so tired and worn out. Remembering how much I liked Ely the first time I went I decided one morning to abandon all responsibilities and spend the day in the city. It was goofy – there was a full string of verified slow ways routes between Cambridge and King’s Lynn except for Ely – Littleport. So I figured I’d try it out. Starting in Littleport, I had to fail the route. I spent the afternoon exploring Ely on a beautiful day. Feeling up for it, I decided to map a new version on the fly and walk back to Littleport. It was hardly a ‘proper’ rest day, but it was so pleasant to spend the day in Ely and to walk in the countryside.
Yatton – Axbridge – Wells
A great adventure! This was a perfect example of Slow Ways being utilitarian in a way. It’s so tough to get around the Cheddar Gorge area by public transport, so I got there by walking. I also wanted to go to the Thatcher’s cider mill, which just so happens to be located actually on the Slow Ways route! A perfect collection of tourist attractions linked up by Slow Ways. A great two days across the Mendip Hills.
Photo by Mike TormeyPhoto by Mike TormeyPhoto by Mike Tormey
Frome – Maiden Bradley – Bruton
The worst day of Slow Ways walking I’ve ever done. It was so hot. There were so many overgrown paths, locked gates, cows in fields, navigational issues, and more. It was an exercise in patience for sure.
My frst two Slow Ways routes ever! I knew the areas from cycling, but had never experienced them on foot. There were gorgeous hilltop vistas, blooming bluebells, rolling fields of flowers. It was a super fun day trying out this new thing. I was amazed by the final approach into Winchester – every time I thought the path wouldn’t exist as mapped, it did, and it navigated me into Winchester creatively and totally without issue!
This was a goofy little route I did on a whim. It’s a real mixed bag; there’s some good features and some less good features. It shows off the hilly residential districts west of Plymouth city centre, so there’s not like a lot going for it for a big chunk in the centre. That said, it starts from Torpoint with the chain ferry, which is fun. It ends on the Saltash side with a walk over the Tamar Bridge, with a great view of the Royal Albert Bridge. I love getting up close and personal with great bridges, and I loved getting an ice cream on the water in Saltash, in the shadow of the bridges.
Isle of Wight
An epic adventure. There are so many moments on the Isle of Wight when you round a corner and you’re struck by the most beautiful countryside view you’ve ever seen. At one point, I stopped dead in my tracks at the sight of the view and exclaimed, out loud, “OH MY GOD!” Little did I know, there was someone coming up just behind me, and I definitely startled them! About midday on day 1, I was on top of a hill with a great view over one of the seaside towns. Almost immediately, the clouds rolled in, and I spent the next day and a half fully engulfed in the clouds. It created this surreal and otherworldly effect to the walk. It was epic. At one point, I took a wrong turn and was too stubborn to turn back; this led me to trudging up a hillside, fully shrouded in mist, surrounded only by the sounds of sheep baa-ing in the distance. Arriving into Yarmouth as the sun came out was an incredible feeling. An EPIC adventure!
One of the coolest London walks I’ve done! It’s amazing – it goes from green space to green space almost the full way. You’re in London but you’d hardly even know it, staying in quiet green spaces almost the whole way.
My first London route! I met Dan in person for the first time ever at Greenwich on my second day in London and we walked all the way to Wood Green together. This route is pretty cool, showing off the Greenwich foot tunnel and the docks of the Isle of Dogs before entering into the heart of Canary Wharf. A whirlwind of a route!
There’s no better city in the world for walking than the City of London specifically. I love walking in the City. There’s so many alleys and passages and cool views of cool buildings and it’s so quiet and pleasant for walking and there’s so much to discover along the way and it’s just so fun, every time. The experience of adventuring and discovering is excellent. This route is the perfect introduction to the joys of walking in the City!!
Photo by Mike TormeyPhoto by Mike Tormey
Thank you Mike, for every adventure and subsequent route reviewed! We look forward to seeing your adventures in the USA! Click here to follow Mike on Twitter.
In her second video for Slow Ways, Vi Assal walks Cheadle to Cheadle Hulme and observes how neighbourhoods differ in their access to the green spaces en route
This is the second Manchester route you’ve walked for Slow Ways; what new insights into the city has exploring the green spaces given you? Has this changed your relationship to the city or your sense of belonging?
I’ve lived in South Manchester for five years now, so I tend to travel to the Lake District or the Peak District. I also use my National Trust membership to access the outdoors, or walk twenty minutes to the closest park from my flat.
As shown in my last video, walking in South Manchester showed me that not all urban areas in the North of England have the same access to green spaces. I feel like the number of trees, street planters, people with gardens, the size of their gardens, and the number of public parks and trails, are all dependent on the overall wealth of the neighbourhood. This really demonstrates to me the need to increase: – the number of green spaces in poorer neighbourhoods so they are just a few minutes away from housing, – the provision of public transport from those neighbourhoods to existing green spaces, – the amount of infrastructure in public green spaces such as benches, tables, playgrounds, and outdoor gym equipment.
I also feel like the city could do more to raise awareness about the existing green spaces as the majority of the smaller trails I walked seemed under-used: very few locals can be found there, save a few dog-walkers.
What are the key differences you’ve noticed in accessing green spaces in Manchester compared to Paris?
Overall, it showed me that Manchester can and should do better for its inhabitants, compared to cities of similar size in France, which have a wider choice of parks and gardens within walking distance from their flats. Those parks and gardens are not necessarily large, many of them only have a few trees, bushes and flower beds with benches every few meters, but they provide essential spaces to escape the noise and business of the city without actually leaving the city.
As the vast majority of people in Paris also live in a flat, those green spaces also provide key space for communities to meet, socialise and grow. They offer free and accessible areas and infrastructure to rest, play, eat, play music, watch performances, and exercise. They often have free Wi-Fi toilets, benches, tables, playgrounds, sport equipment, chess tables, covered areas protected from the rain, and a variety of trees, bushes and flowerbeds.
Thanks to Slow Ways, I am discovering hidden paths in Manchester, and that made me reflect on the fact that access to nature is not just about the cost of train tickets to National Parks but also access to those local paths, a few minutes away from us, hidden in wealthier neighborhoods. #outdoors#nature#fyp#dayout#mentalhealth#righttoroam#wilderness#equality
I’m Vi, a French Black queer and disabled person living in Manchester.
During the week I’m a project manager in equality and diversity in the charity sector. But on the weekend, I put on my trainers and go hiking on adventures. Well, I call it slow hiking because I spend as much time walking as I do sitting down and enjoying the plants and wildlife around, rather than rushing to the summit. I’m also a member of Black Girls Hike UK, which provides a safe space for Black women to explore the outdoors.
You can follow my adventures on TikTok and you can follow Black Girls Hike on Instagram.
Each week our Stories Editor highlights a unique review left by a volunteer that speaks to the spirit of Slow Ways
We are often checking routes and the progress made in different areas and come across great reviews, which come in all shapes and sizes, by our volunteers — some are short and to the point, others are humorous, historical or personal. Together they provide a full picture of a route for the next walker.
This week, Ingrina tells us about a 15-mile route she completed in two parts from Kinlochleven to Fort William. Much of it follows the established West Highland Way walking route, but the Slow Ways version features a diversion up Cow Hill for a view of Fort William before descending into town. Ingrina, who’s previously taught us how to get started with multi-day hiking, did this one in two parts (in seperate trips), meaning she’s experienced it in both rain and shine. In this review she gives us plenty of information about the route and manages to condense 15 miles of trekking into three paragraphs while still giving us a feel for what it’s like out there on that wild highland way! All of this is accompanied by some fantastic pictures, which show both the rainy day and the sunny day, highlighting the sheer contrast between the two.
Forkin one Kinlochleven to Fort William Ingrina Shieh 13 June 2023
A beautiful route in the west Highlands that mostly follows the West Highland Way until you get into Glen Nevis. I did the whole of this route in 2 different trips – the first time as part of a West Highland Way walk (when it rained A LOT), and the next trip to finish the last part of it, which goes around Cow Hill.
The path from Kinlochleven starts with a bit of a climb, but the scenery and surrounding nature eased the effort. We then joined a wide old military road in very good condition, which is great for walking and talking side by side. This continues on for a long while, and you’ll pass and wind through woodlands on the undulating path. It’s not as varied as some of the other walks around the area, but it is fairly relaxing if you get good weather (we didn’t, so we rushed quite a lot of it!). To descend, we followed a gradually zig-zagging path through the forest.
The section where it diverges from the WHW towards Cow Hill is beautiful and a MUCH better alternative to the road walking of the WHW. It goes through and in woodland, with the Mamores range in sight on a clearer day. We did have to do a bit of an ascent, but it doesn’t go all the way up Cow Hill, just to a great viewpoint overlooking Fort William before descending into the town. This is one of the reasons why I love doing Slow Ways – discovering great alternatives to the popular suggestion. If you’re doing the West Highland Way and have the legs in you, I’d definitely opt for this route into Fort William to the end. It’s a stunning way to end a great walk!
If you want to follow in Ingrina’s footsteps, here’s the route page for Forkin one. Ingrina has written a number of pieces for us, including her guide to multi-day hiking trips and a story of a group walk which shows the wonder of walking together. She also starred in an interview with Saira, where topics covered include what it’s like walking solo as a woman. For more of our favourite reviews from Slow Ways volunteers, click here.
Want to help us grow the network of verified walking routes? Why not sign up to walk and review Slow Ways. You can also find and follow us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
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